It’s an overcast sunrise on our final day in Kyoto as I pace down still and sombre streets towards the Lawson (hail, Lawson!) next to Kyoto Station. Despite teetering on the brink of total exhaustion and with only four hours sleep at best, I’ve somehow managed to get myself out of bed on time to take first pick of the freshly delivered goods at the combini. I proceed to stuff my backpack with everything that catches my eye, knowing I’ll need all the energy I can to get me through the rest of the day.
It’s Mt. Inariyama today and it’s the first time since touching down in Japan that I’m alone.
I’m struggling to fit the third egg sandwich in my bag as I smile my thanks and goodbye to a red-eyed night shift clerk at the store. There’s no rush though as I wait for the green crossing light in an empty street across from the station. It’s rare to see Japanese people cross the road without the green man, even if there isn’t any traffic, as abiding by the rules is something they just do here. It’s not even a week since we arrived and I’m already assimilated.
A man with a briefcase hurries past me on a red light, looking rather concerned as he flits his head to check for traffic.
Maybe I should just cross…
Before I know it I’ve taken the train from the very empty and quiet Kyoto Station, along the Nara Line to reach Inari Station.
Fushimi Inari Taisha Shinto shrine sits directly across from the station exit and is truly unmissable with a gigantic red torii marking the entrance.
I take a moment to admire the first of what would be many, many fox statues – representing the Inari Ōkami – that are dotted around the site, from the temple complex which covers the lower half of the mountain, to the multiple shrines that extend the length of the walk, all the way to the mountaintop.
There are quite a few more visitors than I had anticipated at such an early hour. Nevertheless, I’m here to experience the physicality of the place, and the presence of the few who have travelled this early gives me a hint that it’s obviously worth the journey.
I walk and shoot a few pictures as I make my way around between the back of the temples, towards the start of the trail. The buildings within the precinct at Fushimi Inari Taisha don’t open till 8 AM, so the paths are relatively clear and I can already hear the peaceful sounds of the forest coming down from the hills above. Soon I see stairs and the famous split, curving pathways lined with torii.
Obviously, like a homing pigeon, I’m drawn in.
I catch fleeting glimpses of my surroundings as I’m funnelled through the red channel. Sporadic breaks in the sequence give me an open view of my surroundings before they’re once again occluded by a rhythmic red blur of the hashira.
What my mind first dismisses as small scattered stone foxes I later recognise are statuesque wild cats overwatching my every step. A sullen black cat prowls from left to right across the path laid before me.
Is that considered good luck or back luck in this country? I don’t care to find out.
As I proceed through the varyingly dense torii tunnel the path eventually opens up to a sprawling woodland area and I’m taken back by the multiple monuments that are built up before me.
A mass of leaves, lanterns and stone shrines littered with smaller torii rise up as the path weaves among them.
Past that a marina of leaves are scattered over the calm surface of a perfectly reflective green pond (Shin-Ike). Abreast the water Kumatakasha, a structure housing a worshipping stone for the Kamutaka Ōkami deity.
There’s so much here and I’ve already taken around fifty pictures with my Pixel 2. It’s already clear at this point that I’m in for a visual onslaught of detail with each step towards the peak. Which, looking at the way forward, seems to be a torii gated, cat patrolled climb to the top.
If you hate the colour red and you haven’t already you may wish to leave now.
I’m guided further up the torii marked stairways and pass what I instantly recognise from the outside as one of my dream businesses – a small restaurant partially covered by trees. What an opportunity it must be for the people who live and work on the mountain to enjoy this spectacular place the whole year round. I would easily trade my three bedroom rental in North-East England to be surrounded by such an ancient and peculiar place as this.
Further along, there’s a break in the trees and as I take a moment to look out over Kyoto I can see the far-off mountains west of the city, thanks to the elevation I’d gained. The city is much flatter than I had imagined, which contrasts heavily with the places we’d been elsewhere.
A minute later I reach a crossroads in a tiny valley-like opening between the trees, giving me an opportunity to explore in three different directions. I figure that I’d save the route to the top for a little while, so I can see what else I can find up here.
I choose to jog briskly downhill on a path that veers away from the mountain and continue on until I reach a shrine with a delightful stone dragon. I check my map and see that if I were to keep going the path would lead me down to Tofukuji and Sennyuji temples.
No matter how much I’d have loved to have stayed and explored the area fully, I had already arranged shinkansen tickets for our return to Tokyo around midday. It was coming up to 7 AM and I wasn’t really more than an hour from the hotel but I had to keep on track. I couldn’t be too sure how much more awaited me further up.
I turn around and head back up to the crossroads and then up the steep stairway with an imposing monument at its crest.
This is Kojingamine, a former shrine dedicated to Gondayu Ōkami. It wasn’t as well kept as the other sites I’d encountered so far but there was a signpost that encouraged me to go check out the viewpoint a short distance behind the area.
This turned out to be a good recommendation and it gave me a chance to stop and refuel using some of the snacks I’d by this point forgotten were warming up in my backpack. Though the cloud still lingered above me it was starting to warm up. I wiped the first bead of sweat from my brow as I munched through the first half of my supplies. An inquisitive hornet arrives to cut short my breakfast break and chases me back down towards the crossroads as I try to hide my sandwich wrapper away from it’s eager buzzing.
It must have known how good these egg sandwiches are.
As I tackle the final stretch of the mountain with a renewed stride I seem to have hit a pocket of empty space in the trickle of humans that have come this far so early in the morning. I decided to record some video to use as reference material on future game projects and tried my best to keep the camera steady as I bob along the stepped pathways.
By now I’ve seen so many torii that it’s only their unique presentation or an interesting arrangement that takes my interest.
There’s definitely more than 10,000 – that’s for sure.
There’s still so much to take in as I ascend but I stop only briefly in each area to take pictures.
On the way, I pass Sannomine (Shiragiku Ōkami), Ainomine (Ise no Ōkami) and Ninomine (Aoki Ōkami) before reaching Ichiomine, which crowns the 233m holy mountain.
There are two foreign-looking pilgrims at the top rocking Gucci bags, currently absorbed in an intense prayer mode. I leave them to it and wander around the shrine taking in the environment and soaking up the vibes as a lone incense stick perfumes the air.
There is so much to see here that it’s would be quite an achievement to document it all. Instead, I take some more reference pictures while I wait my turn.
When it’s time I check no-one can see me and I reach into my back pocket for some lucky 5¥ coins. I throw ’em in the saisen-bako (an offering/coin box) and pay my respects in prayer.
*clap-clap*
There was no confounding revelation. No rush of spirit energy. Just a calm, gentle sound of wind rustling the trees while I meditated in the momentary serenity of my accomplishment.
Bliss.
As I bow out at a ridiculously awkward obtuse angle and turn around I see that a woman has been standing there, watching me botch the whole operation.
Oh well, the deed is done. Our time in Kyoto is almost over. Time round up the family and get our asses back to Tokyo.
Heading back down the mountain I pass some of the newest torii I’ve noticed so far. Their fresh red paint vibrates a calming orange warmth as the sun breaks the morning clouds and shines glory down upon the hillside.
The path starts to get busy as I approach Mitsurugisha, home of the Tsurugiishi Stone, who from what I can understand from the sign is a stone that is supposed to be the spot where lightning struck multiple times in the past. It goes on to speculate that these events represent a lightning deity visiting their mother, or the home of their mother.
The path snakes past Mitsurugisha to reveal Yakuriki no Taki behind it.
Here a small path running under some splintered old gates catches my eye and I follow it to reveal an area that would normally be hidden from view.
For a second I expect to find a magic chest with secret loot, a reward for explorative adventurers. Alas, life is not a video game.
This area feels older and the shrines here have a mysterious aura about them.
Maybe it’s just the incense burning in the gift shop adjacent to the shrine but I get a chill in my spine that tells me it’s time to carry on.
Just past the gift shop is a barrage of signs that let me know the path leading down to the right is, in fact, a dead end and that the path leading up to the left takes me to the exit. Hmm…
While I’m cautious of anonymous orange markers directing me I choose to heed the advice and rightly so. As the left path rises up around the hillside I can see that the path below, while enticing with its multiple routes, is certainly closed today. Each route blocked by barriers covered in warning signs.
Left it is then.
Along the chosen path an oddity sticks out above me. A shrine I can’t find on any map that looks to be abandoned. Investigating it I find there isn’t much decoration and what remains is worn out and unmaintained, except some smaller torii placed upon the central stone slab.
What secret may be lost to time here?
I don’t have to trek far before the path turns and dips back down again, bringing me right down into a valley where the three peaks of the mountain meet and to the biggest cluster of stone shrines I’ve seen.
While I stand gawking at the immense spectacle before me I hear the cheery laughter of a toddler being bounced, step-by-step up the mountain by their parents. It’s good to see other families making the trip with young children.
I think of my own family and how it’d have been great for them to have seen this. I know my ambitious itinerary had burnt them out though, so I was just hoping that they were having as much fun as me this morning.
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While I’m cautious of the time there’s no chance of me skipping this. I check my remaining battery on my cameraphone then start a rapid-fire study of my surroundings.
Everything here seems to have some sort of significance, from the smallest rock to the tallest tree. Everything is decorated, everything fights for your attention amongst the noise.
On the map, this place is simply labelled ‘Gozendani Worship Place‘. No further information was provided.
I think they should put a description next to it that just reads, “WOW!”
The area is truly dense and I my head and hands spin as if on pivots, trying to capture as much of it as I could.
It was clear that there is importance drawn to the many different animal statues in the area. Each of them adorned with bibs, headdress, masks or capes that exuded red and gold hues into their surroundings.
I would later find out that this is a prayer area that holds a number of important ceremonies at different points in the year, including one where a deity is offered enough sake to take out a horse. Which might be the aim, since they do this in anticipation of the First Day of the Horse which falls one month later.
I take enough reference shots to fill an album before moving using the toilet facilities nearby. Where a rather mean looking spider ensures nobody spends their time fooling around in the boy’s room.
Nearby a fox trickles water through a bamboo spout, acting as the temizuya for a torii stacked shrine.
Whatever next, eh?
The density of gates increases as I continue down the mountain trail, looping back towards the first valley I entered, near the crossroads. A torii made of old stone, another with a proclamation of love; catch my eye.
Further down the mountain, I reach the same Shinto shrine I’d skirmished to from the crossroads. The one with the excellent stone dragon.
But I don’t stop. The shadows have shifted noticeably since I was last here and I don’t want to be the reason we didn’t catch our Shinkansen back to Tokyo. The crossroad is not far, so I take a deep breath and tackle the incline with ease, chugging down my now-lukewarm orange juice I acquired earlier this morning.
I cross back down the intersection and past the dream house once again but this time the way I came from is blocked by a group of rather loud American tourists that are getting their pictures taken with two Japanese Akita.
As they annoyingly hold everyone up I remember how just a few hours ago I walked up here and there was nothing but cats dozing around. Not a single one to be seen now…
Not wanting to have to wait I opt for the path that leads me down past the Komarui and Koshishinfudo shrines, then past the hardly pronounceable Hirotakeinarinomiya and Fushimitoyokawainari-hongu.
Though the pathways are still pretty cramped in places the shrines here are cleaner, more organised and covered in banners, flyers and lit candles.
It’s clear that the majority of tourists to the area forgo the mountain peak and instead loop back around to the Fushi inari complex down this road, as this was is much busier than anything of the ones higher up. Though it’s also past opening time now and there’s bound to be more footfall as the bulk of traffic tends to visit the area before midday, or so Google reckoned last night.
This area has some great layouts, for sure. The presence of multiple buildings and the nearing sight of the city below makes me feel like I’m off the mountain trail now.
However, I spot a large but empty shrine behind bear some dense bamboo and I take my final chance to experience a quiet section of this beautiful place unabated.
Of course, there’s a sneaky path down the back leading into the bamboo forest. Of course…
The peaceful walk is brief and ends with me back in pretty much the same place I’d broken away from the main nerve of traffic.
Here, an elderly lady nods to me as we make eye contact while I try to line up the perfect portrait of a frog.
How grim my sleep deprived, mountain-woken smile must have looked.
“That’s you dad and that’s me”, I hear my son say in my head. The statue reminding me of how much walking I’ve done with him on my shoulders.
Crazy or cute, I’m not sure.
“That’s me and that’s you guys”, I say out loud like a nut-case as I snap a picture of a stone family that mirrors the make-up of our family unit.
A man clasps his daughter’s hand tightly and shuffles her past me worriedly.
Crazy it is then.
I’m now in some backstreets following the signs back to the temple, which will ultimately lead me to the station.
Still, there are plenty of red torii, enshrined gods and stone monuments in sight and as I round a corner another pond comes into view. A good spot for a cup of tea and a bit of contemplation… if I had the time.
At the temple I put away my phone, it’s busy as Kyoto Station down here and I’ve no time left to visit the now open temple halls.
Luckily the station isn’t as busy and I head for the platform to find a train roll in just moments after I arrive. What timing!
As I watch out the window I’m thinking to myself how valuable the morning has been for me. Getting up early and getting work done – yes, I got a whole bunch of valuable reference material for my games – while also awakening my body in a way that I enjoy.
I need to restart my early morning routine when I get home.
My family greet me with laughter once the electronic lock of the hotel door jingles as it allows me access. Everyone is fresh, lively and ready to go. What good fortune!!
Hotel-departing nightmares are not realised today.
On the way back to Tokyo we’re sitting on the left side of the bullet train and that gives us a chance to catch a glimpse of Fuji through a mist of silken cloud. Somehow, before I know it the announcer is calling out our station.
Had I fallen asleep? Was I beginning to fit in?
It’s a Saturday and Tokyo is as busy as ever, so we stop by the park close to Amy’s place – the same residence we stayed at previously – and have some time to play with the kids before we settle down for an early night.
It felt like we’d hit a rhythm now. We were being better parents, we made sure the children had plenty of chances to eat, rest and play. There were no fights or fits or shouting. Bliss.
As daylight gave way to evening checked out a local curry shop which we’d hesitated on previously while in Tokyo. Since then we’d tasted Japanese curry and we knew we wanted more!
There were three curries on the menu. We ordered all three.
Suddenly, the day was done. Our stars were asleep and we had time to relax and enjoy a couple of beers from the convenience store below our apartment. We chatted away for hours about how good it would be if we lived here. How better our daily routines would be and even how we’d decorate this tiny one-room apartment if it was ours.
We even turned in to bed at a pretty reasonable time and everything was good…
…well, I may have snook out for a cigarette or two once my beer buzz kicked in. Then listened to music and drank a bit more while wondering if I should lone ranger myself on down to the bar across the road. Then held a half-cut conversation with a guy that spoke zero English in the smoking area outside. Then spent about an hour at the balcony in drunken amazement that I had actually gotten to visit Japan and experienced the past seven days in this great country.
Whatever are we going to do with three more days in paradise…?